Zambia Safari Diary - Day Seven

Tafika to Chikoko Bush Camp

Microlight Flight
One of the specialities of Tafika is the availability of early morning flights by microlight aircraft – a particular enthusiasm of John Coppinger. Although the majority of guests at Tafika do take this option, only the intrepid ‘Tracker Lloyd’ out of our own group could be persuaded to take to the air on this occasion, although with spectacular results (camera icon). A real highlight, not at all at odds with the bush experience (the aircraft more resembling some huge prehistoric bird, rather than a high-tech artefact (camera icon)).

Unhappy Elephants
Once on our way, again just by ourselves (plus Judith), we drove by road through several native villages to reach our river crossing point back into the main area of the Park. Two ellies encountered en route took particular exception to our presence, and mock charged us. For the first time in our experience the scout actually chambered a round in his rifle, but fortunately there was no need to take the matter further (although the story doesn’t end here). The river Zambia Photocrossing was made by kayak, close to the point at which David Livingstone made his own crossing in the middle of the nineteenth century. It is unlikely that the landscape has altered markedly in the interim. Just after crossing, we saw the irate ellies on the bank that we’d just left, although we had imagined them left well behind (and later on, now on foot, we saw them again on the same side of the river as ourselves, although by now they appeared to have forgotten their quarrel with us).

The final part of our journey was thus on foot into Chikoko, passing more giraffe (camera icon) along the way, and observing how a strangler fig tree had taken over another tree (camera icon). Our obligatory tea stop along the way was enlivened by seeing how the tea bearer was able to make a fire using a pointed stick, rotated swiftly in a hole in a piece of wood situated amongst kindling (camera icon) (although none of the safari group proved able to replicate his feat).

Arrival at Chikoko
Chikoko proved to be the bushiest bush camp yet – no hostess, but still a solar-powered fridge situated in a capacious bar, so it at least had the important home comforts, including hammocks (camera icon). The actual sleeping quarters were an open platform raised on stilts, with the bathroom facilities underneath. No hot water except first thing in the morning, supplied in a jug – very Edwardian.

After a delicious lunch of spare ribs we relaxed until early afternoon (camera icon), until it was time for the game walk (no opportunity for a game drive here, since there was no vehicle access at all, everything having to be brought in by hand – including the huge fridge). It was interesting to walk in a different habitat to that encountered previously, although game sightings were on the slim side (but who were we to complain after the previous day?), with only a hyena of particular note, although the guide did note a ‘smell of death in the air’ close to camp. However a wide sweep around the area failed to locate any cause.

One of the group (who shall remain nameless) decided not to risk the open and somewhat crude staircase down to the bathroom during the night, and simply took advantage of the open nature of the top platform. He (it could have been a she!) then kept awake wondering if some predator (needing only a moderate climbing ability) might, as a result, be attracted to the site, a fear shortly compounded by a crashing noise just by his hut. Not wanting to risk using his torch, he made excellent use of a Russian army surplus night sight that he had with him, to discover that it was merely a hippo, and sleep soon ensued.

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camp fire tales

On one occasion we asked our guide what had been his scariest moment, and he told of one that had taken place on safari elsewhere. In the South Luangwa, the scout might typically carry a .458 Winchester capable of stopping anything. Customarily it will carry 3 or 4 shells in its internal magazine. The first will be soft nosed, for the dual purpose of a warning shot for game such as elephant or buffalo, or as a dropping shot for soft-skinned animals such as lion. The remainder are then hard nosed shells capable of dropping an elephant.

On the occasion referred to, the scout was armed only with an AK47, ideal for carving up human beings, but of little use against big game. The on-foot group (comprising scout, guide and one guest) were very much being faced with a buffalo ‘moment’, as the latter was charging straight at them. The guide admitted to being slightly nervous to start with, but at moments like these it is the scout who is in charge. Then as the enraged buffalo got nearer and nearer (at top speed they can reach 40 mph), the guide became even more nervous.

Finally the scout said – to the guest – “please tell me when you have your photograph, sir, so that I can shoot”. The guest dropped his camera and curled into a ball, as the scout then fired off a salvo of shots into the ground directly in front of the buffalo, kicking up lots of dirt into its face, whereupon it wheeled away. Phew!


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