Zambia Safari Diary - Day One

London to Lusaka, Transfer to Kapani Lodge

Following an overnight flight from London Heathrow to Lusaka, we landed to the usual friendly welcome from the Zambian Immigration Service (USA please note).

We then took an internal Airwaves flight from Lusaka to Mfuwe
() via a new Beech 1900 (20 seater) aircraft. Met by our Norman Carr Safaris guide, Brian, we renewed our acquaintance with the African ‘triple handshake’, and immediately repaired to the Moon Dog Cafe for the now-traditional ‘Mosi Moment’ on arrival in the bush (‘Mosi’ is the local beer). Drive to Kapani Lodge where we will spend our first two nights.

To Kapani Lodge via Mfuwe
The drive takes us on tarmac roads through the town of Mfuwe, which has grown enormously since our previous year’s visit. Then on to Kapani Lodge itself on unmade bush roads. Our first game sighting, en route, is a small herd of elephant enjoying themselves in a lagoon by the side of the road (). Kapani is situated just outside the National Park, and consists of a number of huts set in front of a dried up lagoon () and we enjoy a roast ham lunch on a large deck overlooking the lagoon, watched by numerous baboons and vervet monkeys (). Several bushbuck are seen grazing in front of us. The afternoon is taken up with a welcome siesta, followed up by the traditional tea and cake, and then the evening game drive with Brian.

First Game Drive in South Luangwa National Park
After spotting a number of giraffe, impala () and puku on the way into the Park itself, together with elephant and hippo, viewed from the bridge over the Luangwa on entry into the Park, a lion cub was almost immediately spotted crossing the road ahead (). On following up, and guided by anxious puku and impala alarm calls, we then located the cub again, this time in the company of its mother, drinking from a small stream (). Brian said that it looked as though the lioness had killed recently, owing to traces of blood around her jaws, and indeed a vulture () was noted keeping a watching brief nearby.

Elephant Encounters
Moving on further into the Park, more elephant were encountered, including three young, together with warthog () and zebra. A further giraffe was studied close to, and its accompanying oxpeckers noted (). Brian explained how each species – giraffe, buffalo, hippo etc - attracts its own slightly different variety of oxpecker, whose primary function (so far as the animal is concerned) is to remove ticks and so on from its hide.

• Top

Hippos at Sundown
Our first sundowners () were enjoyed by the side of the river, watching some fishermen camped on the opposite bank, in the Game Management Area outside the Park, accompanied by the inevitable gathering of raucous hippo. A number of guinea fowl scurried around importantly down by the river’s edge.

First Night Drive
During the night drive that followed we spotted a scrub hare, elephant shrew, hyena and genet. Then on the drive back into (and quite near to) camp we saw a hyena skulking along by the actual side of the road – not someone you would want to encounter on an evening stroll outside camp (which is of course why such activities are strictly off limits). Early to bed after a delicious Indian-inspired meal at a large communal table (), shared with the other guests in camp. Slept like the proverbial.

Back to Intro

Next Day

We believe that Zambia is the perfect safari destination. Whether you are new to safaris or an experienced traveller, Zambia simply excels.

• Experience Zambia

Safari Resources

All you need to know in planning your journey, what to take and when to go.